North Brisbane Lapidary Club

We Dig Rocks

Mixed Pendants

By

by Mary

Examples only – not perfect -we learn by doing!!

Split Pendant

Decorated Copper Pendant                                     with folded bail

Twisted Wire Pendant

Decorated Copper – fold forming, sweat soldered and disc cutting

Simple Circle Pendant

Fancy Bezel

Cuff Links for a birdwatcher

By

by Carol Money

These cuff links were made for my brother-in-law’s 60th birthday (which was back in March 2020!) and are now ready to send (Dec 2020).  He is an avid bird watcher and photographer.

The inserts are enamelled using white powder as a base and then painted with enamel overglaze paints and fired again.  They represent day and night with a skylark and a barn owl.

The fastening devise is all hand fabricated using round wire put through the rolling mill, sawing to achieve good corners, soldering and rivets for the rotating piece.

Faceted Topaz

By

by Brenda Honey

I have been mucking around with a friend’s rough topaz and have done two things. One piece I left rough and gave it a light skin polish, then mounted it in a silver basket which I made. I tried to make it look like a bloke could wear it on a black leather necklace. It looks a bit blue in one photo but it’s almost clear from the top.

The other I faceted and purchased a commercial setting for it. Yet again the photos do not capture the sparkle of the gem.

  • Photo 1 – working out the good from the ugly.
  • Photo 2 – pre forming.
  • Photo 3 – half way there.
  • Photo 4 – finished.

Disc Bracelet

By

by Mary

 

Material

  • 1mm square wire (twisted)
  • 5mm silver plate
  • Small pieces of copper
  • Disc cutting kit
  • Hole punch tool
  • Clasp (handmade toggle)

Steps

  • Using Disc cutting kit, cut 9 silver discs (varying sizes)
  • Mark and punch hole in each side of bracelet discs
  • Using Disc cutting kit, cut several small discs for decoration (silver, copper)
  • Clean and polish edges of discs
  • Sweat solder on decorative discs, stamp/hammer other discs as desired
  • Twist square silver wire, then anneal and make 18 jump ring (6mm mandrel)
  • Join discs with jump rings, and solder
  • Attach clasp
  • Clean and polish bracelet with emery paper, brass brush, polishing cloth

More Pendants

By

by Mary

Just playing with what I have available!  The last pendant is an amethyst cabochon.

Materials

  • Silver plate (0.8mm thick)
  • Piece of silver for bail
  • Bezel (own choice)
  • Cabochon (own choice)

Steps

  • Measure and cut piece of silver plate, file and smooth edges and corners.
  • Add some design or stamping if desired. Stamp pendant back with ‘925’.
  • Cut a strip of silver for the bail, file and smooth edges. Anneal. Fold to form bail.

 (Consider bail size and the chain width to flow through it).

  • Using flat nose pliers to flatten and close bail ends ready for soldering. Apply flux and solder pieces to bail, and apply heat/solder.
  • Position the bail onto the centre back of the pendant.  Apply flux and solder pieces. Solder applying heat to top side of pendant.
  • Wrap bezel around the cabochon, mark bezel. Check length and cut. (Allow a little extra, adjustments can be made as you fit it tightly around cabochon).
  • Match bezel ends, place solder pieces around inside of shaped bezel. Apply heat on the outside of bezel, watch it flow. Reshape bezel and fit cabochon inside it. Check height of bezel. If bezel is too high file some off the bottom.
  • Position bezel on the pendant plate, ensuring it sits flat/flush.
  • Apply flux and solder pieces to the inside of the bezel. Apply heat around the outside and watch solder flow. Check bezel has totally attached to the pendant plate.
  • Clean and polish pendant. Put cabochon into bezel, ensuring it sits in evenly.
  • Using square end pusher tool, start to fold bezel over the cabochon, start at top and bottom, then each side (NSEW) evenly. Then carefully fold remaining bezel onto cabochon. Can use a burnisher tool to ensure bezel sits firmly onto the cabochon.
  • Give final clean and polish.

Square End Pusher
Burnisher

On Line Learning

By

By Ray Wilson

During the last 6 months we have all had plenty of time on our hands. This has given me an opportunity to search for online resources that increase my knowledge and give me the incentive to perhaps try new skills.
Craftsy is a fantastic online resource for a whole range of hobbies including jewellery making. Our club subscribed to Craftsy several years ago for some specific online courses, but I’m not sure how how well this investment is recognised. Basically the content is structured in paid classes around various topics and includes a video instruction. It also provides a parts list that includes all of the specifications for the material used in the video. Additionally, for paid courses, subscribers can post questions and get individual feedback from the instructor. Once you have subscribed to a lesson, you have unlimited access to the course. You can do the whole course in one sitting or you can pick out specific parts. You can watch the lesson over and over until you are happy that you understand the skill being demonstrated
Craftsy came to the fore this week with an email that highlighted a range of free videos and also a reduced price for the paid courses.

Of interest to members might be the free lesson on how to use a flex shaft. I know a lot of members have this tool, but how many of us have been instructed how to use the tool to create and improve your creations? Check it out here:
https://www.craftsy.com/class/getting-started-with-the-flex-shaft/

Other free lessons which may be of interest include Micro Torch Basics:
https://www.craftsy.com/class/micro-torch-basics/
Of course Craftsy is not the only online learning facility. Rio Grande also provide many short videos on various topics. You can access these through the riogrande.com website or go directly to YouTube and search for Rio Grande Jewellery:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rio+grande+jewelry+tutorials

Pendants

By

by Mary Lancaster        

Looking for a different activity, I found these cabochons in my stash and decided to have a go at making a pendant (first time!). The first one was a bit of a challenge, however trial and error resulted in the above. Maybe next time I can try using silver plate for the backing.       

 

Cuttlefish Casting Workshop

By

Run by Ray Wilson

Six members participated in a cuttlefish casting workshop on Monday.  While some members had previous experience, others had only heard of the art or watched videos on YouTube.  All participants learned how to select an appropriate sized cuttlebone for their object and prepare the soft cuttlebone for casting.   Various methods of creating a design from tracing to embedding to freehand carving were discussed.  A variety of purpose ready and home made carving tools were demonstrated.  Everyone was able to cast a piece of textured sterling silver that can now be used as  jewellery item or encompassed in other pieces of jewellery.  It was great to watch members back in the club learning new skills and being excited by the creation of artistic pieces from this simple process.

A further day for cuttlebone casting has been planned.

 

 

On the day – Anne using the torch

Attached are some of the items that I have made over the last few years using cuttlebone.

More than just links

By

By Katarina

For the club competition we can either make a necklace or a bracelet. In the past we have shown you the beautiful necklaces made by Mary Lancaster. I look at them and see the beauty and work and certainly appreciate them but they are not my style.

They might not represent your style either so I wasted some time on your behalf and looked for alternate styles:

For the purpose of the competition the piece has to be made of silver or gold with no more than 25% copper for accent purposes allowed (that is optional). And no stones either this year.

Necklace length definitions:

1. Collar – Collar necklaces sit flush against the skin and rest directly above the collarbone. Contemporary collar necklaces are thick and look similar to a collar on a shirt, measuring anywhere from 12 to 16-inches (30 to 40cm).

Figure 1 - Sterling Silver Collar

Figure 1 – Sterling Silver Collar

2. Choker – The choker necklace can either sit very high on the neck or just below the collarbone. The later style dangles more freely and is slightly longer in length. (16 inches/40cm)

Figure 3 - Starburst Choker

Figure 2- Sterling Silver Choker

Figure 3 - Starburst Choker

Figure 3 – Starburst Choker

3. Princess – defined either by their length or style. The length is longer than a choker but shorter than a matinee necklace. The 18-inch (45cm) length is thought to be the most universal and flattering length. Any pendant or focal piece will usually rest right below the collar bones.

4. Matinee – Matinee necklaces are great for jewellery layering because they are longer than princess length and shorter than opera length. These necklaces will fall somewhere between the collarbone and the centre of the bust. (22 inches/ 55 cm)

5. Opera – long and versatile. When they are worn as a single strand, the necklace should fall below the bust line. Some longer opera length necklaces may even reach the bellybutton. (30 inches/ 76cm)

6. Lariat – also known as a rope or Y-necklace. In terms of length, this necklace is longer than opera length; doesn’t have a clasp. The chain or beads form a long rope that is either tied or pulled through a circular finding like the one pictured here. (Ave. length: 34 inches / 86cm)

Figure 4 – Lariat Necklace

Necklace style definitions:

1.Bib – usually collar or princess length. They consist of a wide front portion that rests just below the neck. Pearls, beads, or gemstones are often sewn or set into the bib, creating fanciful designs along the circular or triangular frame.

Figure 5 – Bib Necklace

2. Lavaliere – a feminine pendant necklace that connects a dainty chain to a larger focal piece. That main pendant also has smaller embellishments dangling from it. This necklace style was popular during the Art Nouveau, Edwardian, and Art Deco jewellery eras. These delicate pendants look best with light, feminine, and even bohemian fashions. They are usually princess length and will sit right below the collarbone, so any neckline will work well.

Figure 6 – Lavaliere Necklace

Figure 7 – Locket

3. Locket – a small compartment pendant that can hold a small picture or memento. These pendants are personal, sentimental, and are often passed down for generations. Lockets were popular during the Victorian era and were often engraved and filled with a loved one’s hair.  Lockets look best with opera length chains but usually come standard with an 18″ princess chain. Pair a longer locket with a minimal necklace that is choker length.

Figure 8 – Pendant

4. Pendant – can come in many shapes and styles. Pendants are focal points that dangle off a chain of any length. Popular pendant styles include lockets and lavalieres. Pendants are easily personalized. Initial pendants make great gifts and are often worn close to the heart.

There are more styles but I have left them off as they are defined by the use of stones and pearls and so not suitable for our competition.

Reference

  • Figure 1 – Sterling Silver Collar by Artie Yellowhorse
  • Figure 2 – Liquid Chain Choker – by Louise Olsen
  • Figure 3 – Starburst Choker
  • Figure 4 – Lariat Necklace
  •  Figure 5 – Bib Necklace
  • Figure 6 – Lavaliere Necklace – by Kristin Ash. Why not replace the spinner with a wire sculpture
  • Figure 7 – Locket – you would have to make the locket too.
  • Figure 8 – Pendant

We hope this will give you some ideas and inspiration to participate in the competition. If you are not sure if your idea will work, why not contact one of our instructors or talk to any of us to discuss. And remember, you still have plenty of time.